Talent Talks: Ása Bríet Brattaberg
Ása Bríet Brattaberg was passed on the incredible gift of craftsmanship and handcraft by her grandmothers. Departing from these origins, Tales Told in Tangles solidifies the power of craft in the here and now.
Ása Bríet Brattaberg - Tales Told in Tangles - Image by Vidar Logi
Could you please introduce yourself?
I am 27 years old and I come from 2 small islands, Iceland and the Faroe Islands. I graduated as a dressmaker from the Technical College of Reykjavik in 2016 going straight to The Reykjavík School of Visual Arts, for my foundation diploma course in textiles, deepening my knowledge in my chosen profession, fashion design. I graduated from BA womenswear from Central Saint Martins in 2023. I recently started a Masters program in Fashion Design with knitwear at Institut Français de la Mode in Paris. Sustainability, finding solutions and working with what is in my surroundings is very important for me personally and in my work.
Having graduated recently, how do you look back on your studies?
Looking back on my studies I feel incredibly lucky and honored for all the people that I met, my tutors and opportunities that came along the way. Studying fashion design abroad during the pandemic of course had a lot of affect on my studies. I spent a lot of time in Iceland studying remotely which changed my mindset to better towards my work to approach the fashion industry in the future in a world where climate change has become incredibly tangible.
Ása Bríet Brattaberg - Tales Told in Tangles - Portfolio page
Could you please tell us something about your graduation collection/project?
My design process and work method centers around sustainability. I have developed outstanding knowledge in craftsmanship and handcraft through years of work, and am forever grateful to my grandmothers for passing on their tradition of making.
I deeply understand and value the process of making. I look into the origin of ways of making textiles, deconstruct the process of them, and weave them back together, approaching the process in my own innovative way. Reusing discarded textiles, combined with a focus on keeping the rich quality of craftsmanship, are key elements in my work. Working with what already exists leads me into the unknown, it gives each piece the opportunity to be unique, while also affecting change in consumers’ views on how to approach clothing. Regaining the quality of garments with a better circular system where upcycling and redesigning our way of work are key to make a sustainable fashion system.
My garment that I will be showing at the New Order of Fashion exhibition is a coat where I was re-weaving memories from the past. It is woven with a zero waste weaving technique where I wove the jacket straight into its shape on a wooden plate, leaving no waste behind. I used old shirts from my grandfather, who recently passed away. I can still remember him sitting by the kitchen table in the sky blue shirt. I was making a memory tangible. The shoulder pads are hand made by needle felting Icelandic wool and hand knitted underwear and shoes from handspun yarn from wool that I got from my grandparents in Iceland who are sheep farmers.
Ása Bríet Brattaberg - Tales Told in Tangles - Making of Look 2: Re-weaving Memories
Which materials, techniques, programmes and/or applications are you mostly interested in?
Handcraft made by hand really fascinates me, the labor of work, mind of the maker and time that the maker gives into the handcraft. I only use 100% pure material, 100% silk- and wool are my favorite materials because of their characteristics.
I also enjoy working with discarded clothing as it gives me an unexpected outcome and I allow the fabric to lead the way of the textile designs. Each look of my collection had a different textile technique that I was focusing on. Embroidered look with deadstock- and damaged beads, knitting with unconventional material and with handspun yarn and weaving with innovative technique.
I am very excited to start my masters program where I am going to be focusing on knitting. I see there is a lot of potential coming into the fashion industry with specific skills to expand my horizons.
Ása Bríet Brattaberg - Tales Told in Tangles - Making of Look 2: Re-weaving Memories
The exhibition you are a part of looks into the meaning of regeneration. What does regeneration mean to you and your work?
In my research- and design development the process of making itself becomes the focal point. It pushes my boundaries and expands my horizons of my creativity. With different textile techniques and approaching them in a new way I am taking steps towards a sustainable fashion. Taking memories from the past and making them visible to the viewer and tangible for the wearer. I want to be able to take garments that carry with them memories but have maybe lost their meaning and value with time. It creates circularity which is one of the most important thing that we have to be thinking in our society, not only inside the clothing/fashion industry but also in other fields where we are making products for consumers as well as the food industry.
I want to weaponize my client, I want to give them a garment that expresses, that excites, that evokes emotion. I want people, women in particular, to realize how powerful a piece of clothing can be, that we can indeed look at it as a societal weapon, it can instill respect, adoration, fear, and sometimes even loathing in the eye of the spectator. And with clothing that are made with a positive effect on the environment we instantly feel powerful
How do you perceive the meaning and importance of community within the fashion field?
Community is one of the most important things in fashion. For me handcraft brings people together. When people are together working on something that they love with people that they respect and admire we start a conversation and community to create. I am a visionary and I am going to be a role model and showcase positivity in my word. Looking away from the climate crisis that has become incredibly tangible is not a possibility. Bringing people together, creating, seeing, bringing equality, valuing and honoring what is in our surroundings to protect our nature gives us a better future.
Ása Bríet Brattaberg - Tales Told in Tangles - Making of Look 2: Re-weaving Memories
NOoF: How do you view the future of fashion? And your own role therein?
I want to see more diverse business plans inside the fashion industry that are more available to young designers to be able to become part of the industry. Now the fashion industry is ruled by big houses and there needs to be a wake up call from the people from the top, who are in charge. Not only for designing garments but also all the small textile factories that are being bought up by the big houses and makes it more difficult for young designers to approach them and be creative.
I see myself as an artist. With my knowledge and understanding of construction and making I will continue making high quality, long lasting garments that tell a story and educate the consumers along the way. I envision myself working as a designer, both independently and in collaboration with other artists- and fashion houses after my masters program.
Ása Bríet Brattaberg - Tales Told in Tangles - Making of Look 2: Re-weaving Memories